Lightning Ridge - A Springtime Adventure

05 September 2024 / Brigid McCarthy, Jean Cook, Tony Heathwood, Robyn Blood, Bruce Davies, John Cassidy and Senia Gaunson

Welcome to Lightning Ridge - A Springtime Adventure 

Foreword:

A trip to Lightning was a “Sharon Queen of the Desert” Cassidy, brainchild some twelve months in the planning and execution.  

For some of us, Lightning Ridge was a distant memory some 40 odd years ago, BC (before children), with working limbs and no grey hair.  For others, who had never been there, it was a foreign land to be explored.  

While the drive was not what we love in an MX-5 (mostly highways and flat), the places were definitely worth a visit, and the fields of yellow too good to miss a photo op.  

Not much had changed in the 40 odd years since we were there last, maybe a few newer houses but very little else. The toothless miners, grey beards, beer in hand,  looking all of 90 (but in reality probably 50), dreaming of “the big strike”, they were all there.  Sadly the “Great Goat Race” that we enjoyed last time was a thing of the past, but gladly the 4 flat tires we experienced in the 1972 Cortina on our  last trip was also a thing of the past, the ND behaved like a trooper and not an incident was to be had. 

Our sincere thanks go to Sharon for all the planning, excellent leading each day (she even tried to warn us of road kill on her and John’s way home after we’d all gone our separate ways). Finding places that could feed us, as well as a comfy bed and pillow to put our weary heads on at the conclusion of each day. Anyone that’s organised a trip to small country towns with 17 people, knows it’s not always easy!  And to John, you were a great “Tonto” to Sharon’s “Loan Ranger”, providing us with some spirited, within speed limits, driving and not managing to lose a single traveller on this great adventure, thank you and well done!

We asked a few people to give us their impression of “One Day on the Road”.

Senia Gaunson

Day 1 - Brigid McCarthy

Nine cars and 3 generations of MX-5s, in multiple colours, gathered at Mt. Colah for the start of our amazing outback adventure. With 15 club members, from various chapters (Sydney, Illawarra and RPM), there were warm greetings and introductions. It had been an early start for some, with 4.30am alarms for Senia and Bob, Tony and Jen. Robyn and Barry chose the canny option, and stayed overnight nearby. 

Highway running allowed us to cover a nice distance before our 1st morning tea stop, in the new Hunter region suburb of Huntlee (near Brankston). Cold drinks were procured from Coles, and “fivesies” supplies from Liquorland.

From the Hunter, we headed out to the Golden Highway, onto Edderton and Denman Roads, and back onto the New England to Murrurundi for lunch. These were really good B roads, providing great, varied scenery.  The ravaged landscape of open cut coal mining, is interspersed with some of the best horse country in the world, including Emirates Park and Coolmore Park. 

Jean and David started their adventure with a run up the Putty Road, meeting us in Murrurundi for lunch, in Jean’s ‘honorary’ MX-5. 

Lunch was enjoyed at the 'Take a Break Cafe' in Murrurundi. A long table outside, under a shaded pergola, was perfect to enjoy some local soft drink, fresh made sandwiches and rolls, and the best country made hamburger.

From there it was onwards to the staggeringly vast plains of Breeza. Pasture improved paddocks and lucerne crops gave way to immense horizons of flowering canola. You could smell the sweet tang as we drove through. The photo opportunity on the Kamilaroi Highway, with the yellow canola fields, was too good to miss. Carefully executed turns and angled parking, yielded a few laughs and head shakes from the locals, and a blast of the air horn, from the passing freight train. A possible cover photo for a future Club Torque edition? We'll see…..

Our final day 1 touring highlight, on the outskirts of Gunnedah, was a visit to one of the painted silos, featuring Dorothea Mackellar's iconic Australian poem.  From there, it was just minutes to our day 1 destination, with our group split across 2 hotels.

Once all were settled, we reconvened for '5’esies' outside Bob and Senia's room, with BYO beverage.  Nibbles, cheese and biscuits provided by our day’s hosts.  

With everyone nicely relaxed, it was a comfortable wander through town, to the Courthouse Hotel Bistro. This local pub was packed on a Tuesday night, and when the meals arrived, we understood why. Generous, well cooked and tasty meals all round. Steaks, lamb, schnitzels all receiving a thumbs up rating. Well-watered and fed at the end of Day 1, the group retired for a well-earned rest, looking forward to our Day 2 adventure.

Day 2 - Jean Cook

The day was bright and sunny again, lucky us! We took a small detour to visit the CSIRO Australian Telescope Compact Array. It was really interesting, with the added bonus of an old racing car in the parking lot. After a short break there we drove on to morning tea at the Wee Waa Arts and Cultural Centre, where some art purchases couldn’t be resisted by some (where will they put them in the MX-5?). Then on to Barren Junction for lunch. 

The afternoon drive took us to Walgett where we stopped to view the Jimmy Little painted water tower. 

After our arrival in Lightning Ridge, we decided that we would have our “fivesies” out at the Sunset viewpoint, Nettleton’s Lookout. Brigid was our Day 2 fivesies host and she spread out a magnificent array of goodies to share while we enjoyed a glass of red and a magnificent sunset!  It was warm, and we spread ourselves out and witnessed a spectacular sunset overlooking miles and miles of plains! It was obviously a well known and popular viewpoint, as there were many others there, a variety of grey nomads and families with children. After that we all went to the Lightning Ridge bowling club for dinner!

Day 3 Thursday - Tony Heathwood

Today was an exploration day with a coach Tour of township and opal fields in the close vicinity of the Ridge.  Our driver was Pauline who was very knowledgeable but would not answer Sharon’s questions. 

We visited the now derelict and closed open cut opal mine close to town. The mining department requires each mining site to be “restored” once mining is completed.  This mine was left unrestored to give visitors an insight into the size of some of these “digs”, with layers of different sandstone and finally the opal layer, often far below. 

Our next stop was a walk in opal mine that showed the workings and underground construction of a now unused mine. It was amazing to see the close quarters the miners work in when digging. 

We stopped at Amigos (Vittorio Stefanato) Castle that was an unfinished and unique stone constructed residence that has a tower and some features of a real castle.  Stefano is currently residing in a secure facility at His Majesty’s pleasure for at least 13 years following conviction for murdering a 39yo woman at the Ridge in 2020.  

Our next stop was a trip to a Bottle House full of really old stuff where we had a go at fossicking for opal, without much success. Morning tea at the Red Rattler train was excellent with yummy scones, jam and cream. Following “fivesies” with nibbles and drinks at the motel, dinner was at Bruno’s that was very much an outback version of an Italian restaurant and the service matched that of Basil at Fawlty Towers.  A good day was had by all.

Day 4 - Robyn Blood

Warm start to the day with the temperature to reach 35 degrees. Pick up time was 9.00am for our day tour with "OUTBACK OPAL TOURS" with our guide Nat. Two Pubs and a Club in the Scrub.

After travelling for 90 minutes we arrived at Mundaroo Station where we passed the outdoor film set of OPAL HUNTERS. Morning tea was at Sheep Yard Inn on Grawin Station. Scones with jam and cream which everyone agreed best yet. Then 30 minutes fossicking where nearly everyone found a stone or two.

Next stop Glengarry Hilton for lunch. Not bad for a club in the scrub. The beer was cold on such a hot day. Quick visit to Sweenies Arts and Crafts where everything sold was made by the miners.

Next was the War Memorial built by the Community - miners and locals.  A great tribute to those who served.   From here we went to our second pub, PUBINTHESCRUB. Built by locals selling tickets where one ticket equals one beer. No licence. When enough money was earned a licence was bought.

On our way back we spotted Bustards, (looks like an emu but with short legs), Boar goats and lastly a statue called Stanley the Emu, made with car parts, where Lightning Ridge got it's name. In 1870 a shepherd, his dog and 600 sheep were struck by lightning and killed.

Arriving back around 4.30pm for 5sies. Dinner at Lightning Ridge District Bowling Club opposite with everyone back to their rooms by 9.00pm exhausted.

Bruce Davies - An Alternate Day 4

Bruce and Natalie decided to explore the township and relax on this 35 degree day. We enjoyed coffee and cake at an Opal Street cafe, visited the local Arts and Crafts, the Op Shop and the Historical Society. Rolls for lunch in the cool of the motel room. Short walks in the afternoon to air-conditioned premises, The Opal Cave then John Murray Gallery. Back to the motel for tea then a relaxing time reading in the shade on this tropical feeling day before joining the crew for 5sies.

Lightning Ridge Day 5 - John Cassidy

A magnificent sunrise emerged as we took the plunge (well we slowly slid into) the 40 degree artesian baths.  What a way to start the day.

With military precision we were Gulgong bound, via the Castlereagh Highway, but not before one last photo op co-ordinated by Lester and Simone, as we farewell this harsh but magical land.

197km later, at Coonamble, Mink & Me provided us with a private room, some great coffee and some retail therapy, refreshed and nourished, courtesy of Jenny’s amazing homemade cookies we were on our way.

John Murray greeted us once again with his pink and grey Galah water tower that dominated the landscape as we headed out of town.  The sun shone brightly as we snaked our way south through an ever-changing landscape of canola, salt bush, barley, and wheat, slowing occasionally for herds of cattle that littered the road.  With 300km behind us before lunch, Gilgandra was a welcome sight.  A hearty pub lunch, a splash and dash at the local servo,and we were headed for Winx country, stopping an hour later to admire the magnificent Dunedoo silo, depicting Australia’s greatest ever racehorse and her famous rider, Hugh Bowman who was born only a few hundred meters away.

Gulgong: perhaps the most quintessential town in NSW, John Wayne riding down the Main Street astride his horse,would not look out of place.

Compulsory “fivesies” for all at the Prince of Wales Hotel followed by delicious country fare washed down with superb Mudgee wines.  Farewells were said, after new friendships had been forged.  Senia gave a wonderful speech for the very organised and efficient, but strict (I should know) Sharon!

So where will “The Queen of the Desert” take us next…..

See lots more photos here:

Lightning Ridge Photos - Click here